by Maurizio Pescari
Many of the foods sold on supermarket shelves have long been the subject of scrutiny aimed at undermining their quality, to the point of creating such a state of distrust among consumers regarding production and preservation techniques that they decide to stop purchasing them. Those who bear the brunt of this widespread distrust are those responsible for the illegal activity, forced to recall the products from sale, but also companies that operate properly.
Angelo Moreschini is the president of ASSOM – Table Olive Association intervenes to clarify the situation for the protection of the table olive producers it represents:
"First of all, I'd like to emphasize that our country's production system is among the safest and most controlled in the world; the National Institute of Health confirms that, statistically, between 2001 and 2024, most foodborne botulism cases were found in home-produced canned goods."
In the case of table olives, what is the situation?
If we try to eat an olive picked from the tree, we're struck by the bitterness; to be palatable, that olive must be 'de-bittered,' using natural methods that require time and the use of salt, both dry and brine. In Italy, the most widespread method, closely tied to our tradition, is the 'Castelvetrano' method, which quickly produces olives ready for consumption, with the characteristics consumers appreciate most: color, sweetness, and crunchiness.
So, as always, you have to be aware when purchasing?
“Absolutely yes. – explains Moreschini – Geographical origin is important, but it alone doesn't determine quality; we include the origin on the label, even though we don't have a regulation requiring it. The integrity of olive growers and processors is crucial, as they are primarily responsible for the product's quality. It's easy to talk about 'chemistry' in processing; consumers perceive it as a negative concept, and chemistry is scary. Rather than alarming consumers, it would be better to explain the differences and help them choose. The products used are food additives, approved by EU and Italian regulations and are legally declared on the label; they don't compromise quality, but stabilize and protect it. The quality of a food depends on its organoleptic and nutritional properties, and its wholesomeness, which can be guaranteed by implementing a series of production and preservation strategies that make it safe from a health standpoint.
What is the situation in the table olive sector?
"Our sector is experiencing extraordinary growth," explains Moreschini, "but the situation in the olive oil sector in Italy is marked by a shortage of table olives compared to market demand. We share this shortfall with those who extract oil from olives, and we could try to address it in collaboration with the agricultural sector. Sicily is the only Italian region implementing the olive growing system with new plantations, many of which are dedicated to table olives: the Nocellara del Belice variety, in fact, is highly prized in all global markets."
What do you propose with ASSOM?
"The companies that belong to our Association are all committed to defending and protecting the origin of the product and the quality of the entire production process. In the coming months, – concludes Moreschini – A document will be signed that will lead to the creation of a Federation of European table olive-producing countries: Italy, Spain, and Greece. This will allow us to have an official representation role in the relevant bodies, with a commitment to sharing the rules governing processing and ensuring absolute consumer protection.
ASSOM
Founded in 2016, ASSOM is the first Italian association of table olive producers; it brings together 16 companies involved in primary processing and the processing of the finished product intended for final consumption. ASSOM represents Abruzzo, Campania, Lazio, Puglia, and Sicily, the Italian regions with the largest olive production. Member companies generate revenues of €307 million. The companies employ 530 people, and 2100 Italian producers are involved. ASSOM member companies process over 60.546 tons of olives annually, 58% of which are Italian olives, with the remaining 25.287 tons coming primarily from EU and non-EU countries.
TABLE OLIVES
COI and MASAF data indicate continued growth in the global table olive sector. Over the past thirty years, global production has grown steadily, from 950.000 tons in 1990/91 to 3.019.000 tons in 2022/23, an increase of 218%. At the same time, global consumption has grown by 194% over the past thirty years. The highest consumption rates have been recorded in the producing countries themselves—Greece, Morocco, and Turkey—as well as in the USA, Brazil, and Canada.
