"A category of oils of excellence is welcome... but before proposing new rules, perhaps it would be better to apply the existing ones". Barbara Alfei, panel leader of AMAP (Marche Agriculture Fishing Agency) and patroness of the National Review of Monovarietal Oils (in the picture), takes note of the news that anticipates the values proposed for a superior category of extra virgin olive oil, denominated “ultra-premium” to be introduced in the update of the legislation COI (International Olive Council) and on which he is working the University of Jaen. A proposal that plans to classify as "ultra premium" those oils that have an acidity of less than 0,3% (compared to 0,8% of extra virgin olive oil), a content of oleic acid above 65% a load of polyphenols not less than 250 a reduction both of number of peroxides that gods spectrophotometry parameters.
“Many oils that are passed off as extra virgin today – explains Alfei – actually have defects and do not reach the minimum parameters required by law. The Panel test gives much more information regarding the quality of an oil: if all extra virgin olive oils were truly devoid of sensory defects, with positive fruity, bitter and spicy characteristics, the acidity would be well below 0,8 %! Therefore, it would be good if we began to control these ".
"As for the hypothesis of new parameters for a superior category extra virgin olive oil - his reflection aloud - attention: those who make quality oil certainly manage to keep themselves below an acidity of 0,3%, have a good content of polyphenols and remain in low peroxide values. Some doubts I rise rather on the minimum percentage of oleic acid, with respect to which the quality does not count so much, rather the genetics of the variety and the territory. There are varieties in some regions and in some vintages that do not reach 65% oleic acid…. But how can I not define high quality oil that has been produced in strict compliance with all legal requirements and that manages to harmoniously enhance the aromas and flavors of that variety which, however, by its very genetic nature or Will the temperature present in that area never reach high percentages of oleic acid? We should also bear in mind that climate change risks causing a decrease in the oleic acid content, as already highlighted on some varieties by preliminary statistical processing of the values present in the database www.olimonovarietali.it"
